Christopher Kimball must be triplets. You never see all of them in the same room, but I know he’s more than one person. He had a longtime TV show. He writes cookbooks. He’s published cooking magazines — Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country. Then he moved on to publishing Milk Street, another foodie magazine.
And now, a cookbook based on the magazine — “Milk Street, The New Home Cooking” (Little, Brown; $40 hard cover).
I love it. And if you’re intrigued by international cooking, you will love it, too. The book starts out with instructions on how to cook fluffy scrambled eggs. Fine. But it moves on to a Baked Persian Herb Omelet, Portuguese Curry Braised Eggs, Chinese Stir-fried Eggs with Tomatoes, and Korean Scallion Pancakes.
The recipes are easy and uncomplicated, but they introduce you to a new way of looking at ordinary dishes. We’ve all made Yukon gold potatoes. But we haven’t done Cracked Potatoes with Vermouth, Coriander and Fennel. We’ve made rice. But how about a delightful batch of Coconut Rice?
Ever made Vietnamese Caramel Fish? Me, neither. Nor have I made Shrimp in Chipotle Sauce, or Burmese Chicken cooked with ginger, lemongrass, cilantro and shallots. Yum!
With my Meyer lemons in full production, I’m going to try the Lemon Buttermilk Pound Cake and the Lemon Tart. There’s even a chapter on making your own international sauces—Tamarind Dipping Sauce, Honey-Chili Sauce, Jalapeno-Mint Sauce, and more.
Look for it to debut in bookstores on Sept. 17.
The Cold Cure
Poor Gary has been down with a cold. Not so much the congestion, but mostly the body aches. So, being the good nurse, I made him a pot of chicken soup. It’s quite easy when you start with a rotisserie chicken.
I typically pull them apart and place everything in a crockpot, including skin and bones. Then I add low-salt canned chicken broth, plus finely chopped onion, minced garlic, sun-dried tomatoes, turmeric, and whatever other spices strike my fancy.
A whole juiced lemon also goes in. After juicing, just thin-slice the rind and toss it into the pot. Then cook it for 3-4 hours. I always find that it needs more of one seasoning or another. So, add that. And if the flavor is flat, add salt.
If it tastes too oily, you can brighten it up with more lemon juice or a splash or two of balsamic vinegar. I don’t skim off the fat because that’s what has all the cold-fighting properties. Or so I’ve read.
When done, strain everything into a large bowl. Return the broth to the pot. Pick through the meat, discarding skin and bones. Chop the meat and add it to the broth. And you’re done!
How Do We Rate?
When it comes to knowledge about foreign foods, Americans know the most about what people eat in Ireland, Germany, Canada, Cuba, and Japan. We know the least about China and France.
Really? We know more about Cuban food than Chinese or French? And we know slightly more about Mexican food than we know about Iranian food.
That’s according to a survey of 1,000 people conducted by the Home Run Inn, a Chicago pizzeria. So, take it for what it’s worth. Maybe it’s a reflection only of the people in Chicago.
Contact Donna Maurillo at sentinelfood@maurillo.com
Tip Of The Week
• I came up with this on a whim. When boiling pasta, infuse it with more flavor. Add dried herbs to the cooking water.
RECIPE OF THE WEEK
Want to impress your family and friends? These aren’t ordinary potatoes. They come from the ‘Milk Street’ cookbook.
Cracked Potatoes with Vermouth, Coriander and Fennel
Makes 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
1 1/2 pounds small Yukon gold potatoes, about 2 inches in diameter
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 tablespoon salted butter
2 teaspoons coriander seeds, cracked
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, cracked
1 cup dry vermouth
DIRECTIONS
1: Using a meat mallet or the bottom of a heavy skillet, whack the potatoes one at a time to crack them until slightly flattened but still intact. In a bowl, toss potatoes with one tablespoon of the oil and the salt and pepper.
2: In a 12-inch stainless steel skillet over medium-high flame, heat the remaining oil and the butter. Add the potatoes in a single layer, reduce the heat to medium, and cook without moving the potatoes until well browned, 8-12 minutes. Flip and cook on the other side until well browned, about 5 minutes.
3: Add the coriander and fennel. Cook, shaking the pan constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minutes. Add the vermouth. Cover and reduce heat to medium-low. Cook until the potatoes are just tended and the liquid has nearly evaporated, 12-14 minutes, flipping the potatoes halfway through. Transfer to a serving bowl, scraping the sauce and seeds on top.
